A poor air seal around your windows and doors could be losing you as much as 20% of the energy you use to heat and cool your home according to Energy Star. This poor air seal can be caused by swelling or shrinking of frames creating openings, or simply by a door or window not being sized perfectly to your home. One of the most recommended and effective ways to stopping an air gap is to weatherstrip your home, or to apply a type of foam, rubber, or metal material around the gaps in your windows and doors, as well as in areas such as your attic to stop the transfer of air in and out of your home.
Weatherstripping your home is easy, and many people choose to take on the project themselves, while others may hire a handyman to take care of the job for them. The average cost of weatherstripping a home is around $168 using a variety of materials to fill the relevant areas all over your home.
If you suspect that your home will benefit from weatherstripping, it probably will. Feeling cold air or drafts near windows and doors is an indication of a poor air seal that could be improved with the use of weatherstripping. Energy Star makes a DIY guide to air sealing your home that includes additional steps you can take to determine whether or not an area of your home could be sealed. They recommend starting in either the attic or basement and working your way through your whole home. However, even the most thorough search by a homeowner often misses places. Therefore, it is recommended that you have a professional check your home, to determine how much weatherstripping should be done.
With so many options on the market and on the shelves at the home improvement store, it can be difficult to determine which type of weatherstripping you need. These tips may help:
In addition to the various applications for weatherstripping, most materials also have several pros and cons that can help you determine which one will be right for your project.
Material | Pros | Cons |
---|---|---|
V-Tape/Tension Seal | Easy to use Comes in a roll of adhesive backed tape that you press into place Can be used on many types of windows and doors | Thin Won’t seal up large cracks or heavy doors |
Felt | Inexpensive Easy to use Works on nearly all types of windows and doors | Only lasts about 2 years before it needs to be replaced |
Reinforced Foam | Easy to use Comes on a roll with an adhesive back | Doesn’t last as long as some types Can only be used in thicker gaps and doorways |
Door Sweeps | Easy to install | Rubber sweeps can crack over time |
Magnetic | Forms a very good Close seal, particularly on aluminum doors and windows | Harder to install |
Tubular Rubber and Vinyl 1 | Lasts a long time Makes a good seal on nearly all types of doors and windows | Difficult to install, as the tubular form is round and rolls as you put it up |
Rolled and Reinforced Vinyl 1 | Lasts a long time Makes a tight seal on most types of doors and windows | Can be difficult to install Must be nailed in place |
Reinforced Silicone | Lasts a very long time Can be used in place of caulk 2 in some outdoor applications | Expensive Hard to work with |
Door Shoe | Lasts longer than door sweeps | Fits over the bottom of the door Not as adjustable for finding the right fit |
Bulb Threshold | Works well at stopping heat and cold transfer | Difficult to install Needs special threshold tools |
Frost Break | Very effective at stopping cold transfer | Very difficult to install Needs threshold tools |
Fin Seal | Ideal for aluminum windows and sliding doors | Limited in its use If you have mixed material windows and doors, you can’t use this material on anything but aluminum |
Interlocking Metal Channels | Locks up door perimeters securely | Hard to install Tight tolerances for installation |
Most people pay around $168 to have their home weatherstripped, but some may pay upwards of $250. There are a few factors that can go into determining what your final costs may be:
There are several areas in and around your home that may require weatherstripping, and each of these areas may require a different type of material or seal depending on what it’s made of, and how big the gap is. For example, a poorly hung door with a wide gap at its top edge will require a heavier, more substantial weatherstripping than a window with a thin gap around its edge.
Most weatherstripping is sold by the roll or by the piece, depending on what it is and where it’s needed. Your installer can help you determine how much you need of each material based on the size of each area.
Location | Type of Weatherstripping | Cost of Material |
---|---|---|
Sliding windows 3 | V-Strip | $12/kit |
Doors and window sashes | Felt | $6/roll |
Top and bottom of window sashes | Foam tape | $8/roll |
Wide door gaps | Foam tape | $8/roll |
Bottom of door | Door sweep | $12/piece |
Bottom of door | Door shoe | $15/piece |
Bottom of door | Bulb threshold | $15/piece |
Bottom of door | Frost break | $18/piece |
Base of doors and windows | Rubber or silicone | $10/piece |
Garage Doors | Rubber panels | $9/piece |
In addition to the location of the area you need to weatherstrip, the type of door or window may play a role as well. For example, sliding windows 3 will need V-stripping or tension stripping, while window sashes can use felt or foam. In most cases, weatherstripping can be interchangeable between different areas. However, there are a few types of doors and windows that need a specific type of weatherstrip to do the job.
Type of Area to Seal | Material for Weatherstripping |
---|---|
Inside double-hung and sliding windows 3 | V-tape or tension seal |
Door and window stops, as well as top and bottoms of doors and windows | Reinforced foam tape, vinyl 1, or magnetic stripping |
Inoperable windows, irregularly shaped cracks, window sashes, and attic trap doors | Foam tape or rubber |
Bottoms of doors | Door sweeps, door shoes, frost breaks, or reinforced silicone |
Aluminum windows and sliding doors | Fin seals |
Door perimeters | Interlocking metal channels |
The process of weatherstripping doors and windows are relatively alike. In most cases, the material is cut to fit the opening it is being applied to. Any adhesive backs are removed and the material pressed into place. Nails are then used to help adhere the material if necessary.
Most handymen can take this job on, with an average cost of $153 for the labor; weatherstripping material itself is very low cost, making the labor the bulk of the expense.
The best way to determine what parts of your home need to be sealed is to have an energy audit done. Most energy companies, including your electric company, perform this service for free. In other cases, there may be a charge up to $150, which is applied toward any improvements you make later on. An energy audit looks at all the ways your home may be losing energy, including poor air seal, using thermal imaging tools to show you the hot and cold spots in your home. Getting an energy audit done first can help you determine if you need to weatherstrip, if you need more than weatherstripping, or if your home is already well sealed.
Weatherstripping is a material that fills the gap around windows and doors to create a tight seal.
The simplest way to weatherstrip a door is to apply cellular foam tape around the perimeter and nail a door sweep to the base.
A door sweep is a rubber flange that is attached to the bottom of the door to stop drafts from coming in below the door’s edge.
A kerf is a thin cut in the base of the door frame to allow the weatherstripping fin to be inserted.
Loosen and remove the nails holding the stripping in place. Peel off the old weatherstripping and wash the frame to remove the old adhesive. Let the frame dry, then apply the new adhesive tape and nail it into place.
A roll of weatherstripping is usually less than $10. Having your windows and doors professionally weatherstripped costs around $168.
Cost to install weatherstripping varies greatly by region (and even by zip code). To get free estimates from local contractors, please indicate yours.